Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore

Sept 1st,  Miner’s Beach to Grand Portal+

Looking N on Miner's Beach

Looking S toward Miner's Castle..around the point

Launching on Miner's Beach

The most accessible launch site near the rugged cliffs of Pictured Rocks is at Miner’s Beach.  The downside it the long carry to the beach from the parking lot.  Several hundred feet and down 50’ of stairway gets you to the water…a cart would be nice, which is what the various outfitters used and when they reached the stairway, they just launched their plastic boats down the stairs with someone at the bottom to “catch”.  As this short, pushing 60 year old, walked past the 20 year olds who were rolling along,  I don’t know if I felt good about the carry or foolish because I didn’t have a cart.  The boat and I made it down and up the hill without consequence

The previous afternoon I had stood on the beach contemplating whether to paddle in the evening light to see the near cliffs bathed in a setting sun or wait.  That was on the tail end of the small craft advisory posted Friday…I watched the wind die to the teens, then pickup near 20 mph, 30 minutes later as the 2- 3’ waves broke on the beach.  I had paddled in those waves a week ago at Whitefish Dunes back home, but Miner's Beach is different, there was now no place to land once you reach the cliffs, no kayakers or tour boats around that Friday afternoon, just beach bathers…I waited and went to Grand Island instead.

Saturday morning I packed up the tent, found a quick breakfast at Hardees, and headed for Miner’s Beach. Beautiful, a light wind from the NNE, sunny and warm into the low 70’s, the water was mid 60’s, balmy for Lake Superior.

I'm going to be followed

Launched and headed east toward Grand Portal about 6 miles away, that was the goal. Miner’s beach is ¾ mile, maybe more, of coarse sand. The waves roll up the beach and much of the water disappears into the sand before it flows out, in contrast to Door County’s fine-grained sand, so densely packed the water rolls back out before soaking down. This beach ends and the sandstone begins’ gradually climbing into 200’ sheer cliffs, stained with mineral deposits of many hues, creating the “picture” of Pictured Rocks.

Sandstone Cliffs

Here and there are wave formed caves and arches, a few large enough to paddle in. They are either small…too small for a kayak or huge…30’ or more across.

Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore, wear and tear

The colors of Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore through the fogged up camera housing

Looking toward Mosquito Beach 

4 miles away is Mosquito Beach, a shallow flat shoal that is sandier at the east end. I stopped for a refueling and to clear moisture from the Gopro housing by laying it in the hot sun and cracking it open until the moisture evaporated out.

Mosquito Beach, looking West, from whence I came

Mosquito Beach, looking East.  Flat sandstone, covered with sand

Good camping at the mouth of the Mosquito River

Threading the needle, the Petite Portal Arch

Another perspective, Petite Portal

A kayaker in the Arch shows the size

Grand Portal and the rock fall.  Two kayakers are paddling past.

There were two large opening or Portals that I saw, one is Petite Portal an the other is Grand, which is not as Grand as in the past. There have been several rock falls in the Grand Portal Arch, so it more a look at, than paddle through site. Petite Portal, the other large arch, is massive and easily entered by kayak or small powerboats.

Kayaks on tour

A guide tending his flock

Another group of Yakkers on Tour

Ya just don't see too many triple cockpit kayaks!

It was amazing how many kayakers were out, at least 60 yakkers on tours and many private groups in all types of craft, small 12 footers to triple cockpit woodies. I watched as one dude in a short boat was caught broadside by a 4’ tour boat wake that had come from behind…he only made it through by the grace of boat design, not ability…no spray skirt, no life jacket, no shirt, just tooling along blissfully unaware, he must have had an angel watching him.

Just passed some paddle boarders

There were many paddle boards skippered by college kids with backpacks strapped to the deck, no shoes, shirts, or life jackets. Am I wrong to wonder how those paddle boards do when there is any kind of sea, or the lake turns over to 45 degrees as it often does, and the paddler is wet, the air is chilly? So I hope they are never a statistic in the paper, and their experiences build good judgement.  I’m content with a sea kayak until I move to Florida and can bask in the sun year round….that sounds sweet!

Staying cliff side...hey look, inflatables too!

On the way back, I stayed as close to the cliff face as I could. I examined the changing rocks, talked with passing paddlers, played on some waves. When the tour boats passed, the waves reflecting off the rocks created quite an unsteady sea, so a few times I ran outside of their track, then crashed over the wake, and waved with a smile to the tourists aboard.

If I had continued on a few miles Chapel Beach would have made an nice resting point, but I didn’t see it around the last point, so I took a break at Mosquito Beach again. It was mid afternoon and many more people were around than in the morning…backpackers who followed the Mosquito river down to the lake, yakkers, like me stretching a bit, even a pontoon boat who ran ashore whose crew went swimming.

Back at Miner's Beach

The wind picked up into the mid teens by now, so there were a few waves to surf on the way back. I caught a sweet ride when I landed, riding the wave for 100 feet right up onto the beach and jumped out just before I grounded. For the carry up the hill, everything came out, hatch covers; pump, to make the boat as light as possible. Huffing and puffing I made it up, changed clothes, then remembered seeing a DQ in Munising for some energy to drive home.

The Joseph Medill, 2012, anchored ashore in Escanaba, MI

The Joseph Medill in Algoma, 2004

The Joseph Medill in Sturgeon Bay, 2001

Sister ship, Fred A Busse, Sturgeon Bay, 2012

On the drive back, I took a detour around the waterfront in Escanaba and saw an old friend, the Joseph Medill, sister ship of the Fred Busse. The Busse is a now a cruise boat in Sturgeon Bay and ten years ago the Medill was down in Algoma WI waiting to be sunk as a dive boat, but the owner couldn’t get a permit from the WI DNR, so it somehow ended up in Escanaba, MI instead of in a salvage yard.

As I pulled through Marinette, WI, a friend had recommend this old school hamburger joint called Mickey-Lu’s near the south end of town. A throw back to the 40’s the burgers are cooked on a brick charcoal-fueled grill ...inside the restaurant, and were great!...satisfied, I continued on home.



Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore-Grand Island

Aug 31, 2012

Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore is located between Munising and Grand Marais in the Upper Peninsula of Michigan. It sits on the shore of Lake Superior. About 40 miles long with hiking trails along the lake, some shore side and some 200 feet above on the sandstone cliffs. About a 5 hour drive from Sturgeon Bay,  the weather was great for Labor Day weekend. It is probably not a good time to visit if you want seclusion, as everyone has a 3-day weekend and are either on the trails or in the water. I was lucky and found a carry in tent site Friday afternoon at the Munising Tourist Park Campground…a nice place and a wonderful site on a sand beach, the tent was 50 feet from the water with a view into Grand Harbor.

I could have launched and paddled from there, but I set up the tent and then drove a few miles to

Sand Point Beach.

I had wanted to see cliffs and Grand Island has a few on the shore side…facing the mainland. There were small craft advisories Friday with a wind from the NW…banging waves into the mainland shore where had I really wanted to go, Sand Point was protected, being in the lee of Grand Island.

I headed to the old lighthouse,

 which is in private hands and now maintained in a rustic way. No waves, little wind, swells surging in and out on the rocky shore. The lighthouse was clean and neat, but in good shape, much better than the last time I was here??, 20 years ago?

There is a sand beach near the lighthouse and an old metal skiff onshore, rusting away and lonely. Paddling NE from the lighthouse, the shore is rocky sandstone, gradually rising up to about 50/60’ where I turned back several miles away.

It is interesting to look at the different layers so obvious in the sandstone. One layer is a mixture of small rocks imbedded in the sand and you can follow it around the island. An interesting book about geology and time dating rocks and fossils is “The Map that Changed the World” by Simon Winchester

There were many small wave formed caves and a few larger ones.

The last one I visited had a ceiling 20 feet high and it was 60 feet across…cool!

(The last picture from the GoPro mounted on the kayaks tail before I bumped into the rock at the back of the cave and pushed the mount down)

If I had kept going around Grand Island the cliffs get higher and more colorful.

Heading back to the mainland, as the sun would be setting soon, I went by the old Coast Guard Station on Sand Point, which is now a museum.

There was an old 30’ wooden boat half-sunk and upside down on the shore. Strip built, once powered, it had a steel protected cutwater. The keel had a nicely fitted and obvious scarf near the propeller shaft.

I landed at Sand Point just before sunset. A couple walked up to me while I was packing up and wanted their photo taken, so I did, then she offered to send a photo she had taken of me paddling in, backlit by the setting sun…I don’t have many photos of myself paddling. Arriving back at the campground after dark, I watched the twilight fade and the full moon rise…took a snooze until morning….

Boatmans Wake from Sand Point

Portage Park again

Aug 21st

Meeting at Portage Park just north of the Sturgeon Bay Coast Guard Station on Lake Michigan was much warmer that it was back on January 6th, no ice and 70 degree water...NICE!

Our group consisted of Willy, DD, Tim and Laurel .

We paddled North for an hour playing in some waves and chatting with friends I have not seen for a while.

We landed back at the beach shortly after dusk.

GOOD NIGHT!

I have to read a bit about Joshua Slocum before I sleep

Running Downwind on Lake Michigan

SS to MO, into the evening Light

July 27, 2012

Kayak, SS to MO
Wind, none, water 80!
Launched at 8 PM

Passing the Graving dock of Bay Ship Building, I stopped to observe a guy welding on the A-Frame support for the self-unloading boom on the ex-Mary Turner, now the Ashtabula…her Tug is in the floating dry dock.

The Tug was the Beverly Anderson and now is Defiance…

It is a large Tug with twin screws, so the name fits.

Farther down the yard was the Kate Barker, blowing off some water and have some welding done on the stack.

Paddling on the Sun slowly sinks into the Western sky. Light changes from daylight blue into nautical twilight. The setting sun mellows the sky into pastel hues of pink, orange and blue.

There was an old school style motor yacht at Center Point Marine, dark blue, steel I think. It was from Milwaukee, vertical bow with stainless plates to protect the hull from the anchor. Twin Masts at each end of the large deckhouse, spinning ports on the bridge to throw off rain, snow and ice…it was tough looking, my kind of boat…they were cooking a delicious smelling meal too.

I went past Center Point to look at the rowing course set up for tomorrow along Memorial drive. I heard there will be over 90 participants with sculls ranging from singles to 8’s.

Falcon in the evening light

With the water so warm, a beautiful evening sky, no powerboats, calm seas, light wind…a perfect way to relax at the end of a busy week.

Anclam Park to Cana Island and return

July 21st

Kayak
Anclam Park in Baileys Harbor, WI to Cana Island and return
13 miles, light rain, then sun, winds from sw, 5 to 15, waves none to 3 feet
 I drove to Baileys Harbor to meet with Russ, Tim (Team Leadership Center) and the CYE group they are escorting.

 

Anclam Beach...the town just remodeled it this spring



Anclam Beach and we are launching

The CYE is paddling around Door County this summer, doing the coast in 15 mile stretches. They have more participants the boats, so anyone land bound for the day has the option of biking a route then meeting the paddlers at a take out. Logistically there is a lot going on off the water. Staying organized to support 15 boats onthewater and fairly new paddlers, wanted a few helping hands onshore. Keeping track of the needed equipment, hauling the boats, paddles, extra clothing, food, dropping off, picking up; it reminded me of the logistics person keeping us supplied when I went to Outward-bound in Colorado back in 1976.

Jumping in 

We met up about 8:15 and were under way around 9. Russ, Tim, Father Quinn, and 11 paddlers, most were in their early 20s. Some had previous paddling experience, but many had just learned the basics during the past few weeks.

Crossing Bailey's Harbor

A warm summer rain

We left about 9ish. There was an Overcast, gray sky and a light sw wind with drizzle. After launching and crossing part of the harbor it was obvious one young man had an issue controlling his boat.

Crossing Paths

It was a shorter perception, without a rudder. He just could not get a handle on controlling the direction, so Tim switched him to another boat when we reached shallow water…problem solved.

Nearing the Bird-Cage Light

We pass the Bird-Cage

The old birdcage light house on the east side of the harbor had a lonely forlorn look about it under that gray cloudy sky. It is on private property, but is viewable from the water. There are several points of land on the way to Cana…all have shallow reefs extending a half mile or so from land. Good areas to avoid when there is any wave action, especially with new paddlers or fiberglass hulls. They are rocky areas, no sand.

The CYE Paddlers

Heading to Cana is always an adventurous paddle.

Crossing Moonlight Bay from Toft’s Point to Bues Point takes you several miles off shore. Toft’s point juts into Lake Michigan, so paddlers can be exposed to rolling swells and strong waves from a s or se wind. We had some 2 footers, enough to make the paddle interesting; occasionally one could catch a wave ride.

Cana Island in the distance

Cana Island with Bues Point on the left

Crossing Cana Island

Again there is a reef jutting lakeside to the east of Cana Island. It is rocky and can be rough. We paddle around the island to the North side to take out and stretch our legs.

There were a few swells

The Cana Island light is a tall steel cladded white tower. Currently it is open to public tours through the Door County Maritime Museum.

People on the Light watching us watch them

Russ and Father Quinn

Taking a break near the Island Causeway

I needed to be home sooner, so said goodbyes and headed back south while the group headed on North to Sand Bay.

Heading back

The wind picked up a little and the sun decided to beam in on me as I rounded Cana into Moonlight Bay.

Rounding close by the East side of Cana Island

It was a long hot paddle to Toft’s Point where I pulled out, stripped down (my paddling clothes) and ate. Tuna, crackers, jell-o, granola,… drank lots of water.

Beached on Toft's Point

Found a flat rock and relaxed in the sun before heading back. Rounding Toft’s Point I hugged the shore, picking my way through the rocks and breaking waves…that was more interesting than staying clear of them by going offshore.

Back in Baileys Harbor at the old Bird Cage

Around the point and into Baileys Harbor, under a HOT sun, past the Bird–cage lighthouse, dodged a few powerboats and jet skis, then onto the beach. Lashed the boat onto the truck, changes clothes, grabbed a single scoop of Cookies an’ Cream on a waffle cone at the Yum-Yum Tree and headed home. Later I drove to Menards Lumber in Green Bay to pick up some Western Red Cedar to glue up the main mast for the Trap Skiff.

Smooth sand on Anclam Beach...finally no rocks